A beautiful assortment of loose diamonds.

The asscher cut diamond comes to us by way of Holland. Brothers Abraham and Joseph Asscher first produced the stone that bears their namesake sometime between 1902 and 1907 after gaining international clout by the cleaving the 3,106 carat Cullinan Diamond; the world’s largest rough gem.

asscher cut diamond fitted to an engagement band

The popularity of asscher cut diamonds soared in the roaring ‘20s and made a huge comeback around the turn of the 21st century. One hundred years after their introduction to flapper-era high society, Asscher cut diamonds have undergone some contemporary cut modifications, allowing them to shine with more brilliance than their original brethren.

The Royal Asscher Website quickly squashes any confusion about said modifications, saying, “The Royal Asscher Cut has a high crown and 74 facets – whereas the modern square-emerald cut, and the original Asscher both have 58 facets. Today the Asscher family name is often used as a commodity term for square-emerald cuts.”

These uniquely cut diamonds do best as the main attraction in your ring and put a non-traditional spin on an otherwise traditionally cut stone. However to get the most out of your Asscher Cut Diamond, it’s important to note a few things about its shape, clarity and color before you commit.

Shape of an Asscher Cut Diamond

Though they’re often confused with traditional emerald cut stones and gems, it is the Asscher cut stone’s signature square shape and rectangular facets that move industry folks to refer to it as the, “square emerald cut.”

However, much like a classically cut emerald, asscher cut diamonds feature cropped/truncated corners with a distinct octagonal outline. This also helps bypass the sharp corners’ points of weakness which could result in disappointing and irreparable fractures.

While opinions vary from person to person, typically lower depth percentages of 64-72% and tables of 54-63% are regarded as the most technically beautiful when it comes to asscher cut diamonds.

Clarity and Asscher Cut Diamonds

Asscher cut diamonds readily show the clarity of the stone down to its very center. It is for this reason that they are recommended at VS2 with SI2 clarity or higher for full vibrancy, luster and sparkle.

This admonition is key as stones like Asschers feature step cuts that struggle to break up light that can hide inclusions. As such, inclusions that are present will be highly visible and can quickly stuff out their clarity.

Color and Asscher Cut Diamonds

The next consideration when selecting your asscher cut diamond is its color.

Since on the whole they retain and show color better than other cuts like princess or brilliant round, G-H color or higher is recommended. Otherwise the color may be more visible in the corner of you square cut diamond.

Ultimately, an asscher cut diamond is a perfect non-traditional selection that pairs well in most traditional four-pronged ring settings. Dramatic as a solitaire setting or with minimal accent stones, asscher cut diamonds shine most brightly with low depth, high clarity, and colorless stones.

(Image courtesy of The Knot)